This broad alluvial plain, graced by the chiseled peaks of the North Cascades to the east and the forested humps of the San Juan Islands to the west, is home to the Breadlab, which develops highly nutritious, climate-adapted varieties of wheat, rye, and other grains. One of the nation’s two King Arthur Baking Schools shares space with the lab. Cairnspring Mills, a favored flour purveyor for bakeries across the Pacific Northwest, is around the corner, and at the nearby Breadfarm bakery, the line of people waiting for baguettes, cookies, and massive miche loaves on summer weekends stretches around the side of building.

The seeds of the Skagit’s flourishing grain economy were planted at a time when the community faced a turning point. During most of the 20^th century, peas had been a major cash crop here. In December 2009, Twin City Foods, the last remaining pea processor in northwestern Washington, announced it would close.